Old Horse, new brakes

If you follow this story, then you know my car has been running bigger, gripier tyres on bigger offset wheels.

It's also been running EBC Red stuff front and EBC green stuff rear.

As expected factory rotors started to show signs of the abuse under brakeing as you can depict by the colorful shades on the picture bellow.

yeah it's not been easy for the standard 300mm

SO...

...i'm now working on the new stopping upgrade.

Floating disks 330mm front and Floating disks 315mm rear

Rear retains the standard caliper but for the front ones i've just got hold of these:

some 9200's 4 piston (asymetrical area)  ready to bite.

They where yellow.. or red originaly, something I didn't want on my car, so Diogo Silva made this impecable paint job. If you are looking for a proper paintjob (with decalcs) Diogo is your man. You can reach him here: diogo2306silva@gmail.com

+351933590153

I'm now waiting on the reyland full floating grooved disks 315mm BBK for the rear end:

... and on my new reyland full floating grooved disks 330mm BBK for the front end:

The kit displayed here will not include the R calipers as, for 330 mm disks, the CP9200 are at capacity, but are lighter then the PRO R that can handle bigger diammeters.

... and some serious all round friction from EBC ( yellow stuff pads):

Kits includes mesh metal brake lines, so if the car used to stop on a dimme, it's gonna tear the road now :)

and it's Xmas .. the parts arrived. installing them soon.

Still to be continued... next year ;)

And continued :)

car got to the shop today and everything was installed:

and then front:

Brilliant job by Carmonauto lda, but the Reyland kit was a master-piece of a thing.

Everything fitted at first attempt, everything within dimentions and limits. 

Evidently, the rear shield had to be partially cut and the front one removed for good.

Driving Impressions:

Everything is still breaking in, so I didn't ready punish the thing. Having stated that, the car is much more balanced under braking. The tendency to dive the nose under braking, is reduced tremendously.

Everything seems more balanced and poised.

There is a lot less movement happening and that delays que rear comming out under braking.

As you progress que car seems to grip more and more, and finally start five the nose... the front calipers would obviously end up beating the rear ones and in dives the nose really late into braking line. But that gets linearly perceptible and only heavy braking.

Special thanks to:

Christian Lisboa - connections

Diogo Silva - Calipper painting and supply.

Engine vibrations... are... good!

Having a full racing clutch installed on your car, will get you into some charicat circumstances where you will need to either spin wheel, stall the car, or make a fool out of yourself by entering the harmonic stall-go-stall-go hickup mode.

Whenever you find yourself in hickup node, if your engine mounts are shot, you'll notice the engine ratling arround and that's bad.

So it's time to change'em.

Now why do engine-mounta go bad and then why call the article 'engine vibration is good'?

Engine mounts, on a road car, are made from rubber. There is steel screws surrounded by rubber, that screw the engine to the car chassis, but then, as any good rubber, introduce a jellow like effect, that aborbs engine vibration and restrains it from reaching the chassis, and consequently, your chair... and your ass as a direct consequence.

It's mostly about comfort... and you know how i think: Sophas are comfortable, cars are playstation like toys for men, so zero comfort, all fun and efficiency.

Consequently, after finding out that one of the engine mounts was bad, I brought this:

Now all i have to do is install'em and run the car. 

A LOT more vibration will be felt (good) but also sharper throtle response 

ww:re happy now :)

Half-shaft Cv-joint vibrations, bump steer after offset changes or car lowering and MeganRacing solutions for you.

Anyone having an s2k for over 100.000km has been familiar with a strange vibration under acceleration that starts to become apparent as the car gains milleage.

This is due to the rear half-shaft cv joints hurting the cv joint bucket. 

This will become apparent if you run the car lower or with larger offler rimms, changing the geometry slightly... making it what!? 70% of s2k owners?! maybe more.

The solution is to change those parts... or you can just shift the buckets from left to right (you don't really worry about a small vibration while reversing... and add a cv shaft spacer like the one from megan racing.

The same goes for the bump-steer kit. Drive your s2000 lowered or with bigger offset wheels, and you'll find it very twitshy when it comes to road irregularities. Again, negan racingnhas a bump-steer fix kit that corrects the steering rack angles by adding 2 metal pieces underneath the setting rack mounts.

My car is not lowered but the 5Zigen Proracer GN+ weels are a huge offset difference that gets even more noticeable with the Toyo r888 tires.

So:

Evidently, more parts are in the mail... and soon the s2k will have even more inprovements to report.

Stay tuned.

Timing chain tensioner... no more issues... like forever.

The s2000 has a known issue with the timming chain tensioner. It has little spring strength and after some heat cycles it starts to loose strength progressively, until you hear a rattle while idling. 

This means that, unless you're pulling it and passing oil pressure throught it, it's not producing enought force to counter the slack that the chain gains over time.

This becomes more evident if you drive with thinner oils or on warmer climates.

The solution ia to replace the load spring with something... well stiffer. However, assempling it back is a pain in the ass as the parts need some sort of force to counter the auto adjustment screw, but, the original part, has this as a sinple retainer and that is just a no-go.

Solutions? you can evidently replace with oem, and spend your life doing it every 30 to 50000km. You can transform the part yourself, or you can just buy a track ready part from TODA Racing engineering. Guess what I chose? oem parts out, racing parts in ...the usual!

Install is easy and you can do that in 10 mnts.

The rattle is gone, but that again, a factory part would be the same for a while...it's the future that will tell.

lovely!